Tangles and Webs: dornick's

I decided to do something a little challenging, as a special gift to someone who has done a lot for me. I asked her if she would like a table runner (YES!), and together we selected a twill pattern that pleased her and would be fun for me. She selected the colors: the warp an 8/2 cotton in camel (a lovely soft warm golden brown), and the weft, an 8/4 cotton in cream. Finished, the runner would be 16 inches wide and five feet long, hemmed.

The twill is a "broken" twill called Dornick's (perhaps to honor some long-ago weaver, as this is a very old pattern). A broken twill is one in which the twill lines are offset or "broken" in some way. Here is the weaving draft I made up for the runner:

click for a larger view

As you can see, the angled lines of color do not meet. I think this adds visual interest to the pattern. The colors in the draft are not exact, but give an idea of how the pattern will look when woven, how it is threaded on my 4 shaft loom, and what treadles to push in what order! It is really easier than it looks.

Now, a quick review of the steps in making this project. You'll find the same thing in any book on weaving, but I wanted to share my enjoyment in making this particular project by showing you pictures of it at various stages, thread to finish. You won't learn how to weave from this, but I hope you will get a sense of my involvement and pleasure.

The winding on of the warp:

On the winding board

Warp shanks ready for loom

I divided the number of warp threads by 4, and wound four shanks on my board. The blue thread you see behind the warp is my guide thread. It shows me where to wind and where to turn so that I don't have to think about it too much.

As I finished each shank, I chained it, and set it aside. You will see in a moment why I made up the warp this way.

Warp chains wound on breast beam

I am winding on front to back, so I wrapped the shanks around the front (breast) beam to hold them in place. The looped ends are cut, and one by one, I thread them through the reed. In this case, since the threads are smooth, I will also thread them through the heddles at this point, in the order called for by the threading draft. I have four shafts, and each of them will be used. (My dream is to have an 8 shaft loom someday).

Here is a photo of the other side of the shafts, showing the threads hanging in small tied bunches where they have already been threaded. Others are waiting at the reed to be threaded into the heddles.

Back of loom as warp is threaded

The next step after all the heddles are threaded is to tie on the bunches to the warp beam. I somehow failed to get photos of this part! I think I was anticipating the next part, which is a lot more challenging: winding the warp on all by myself while retaining even tension on all the warp threads. Fortunately, there are ways....

Warp under tension using secret method

The secret: water-filled jugs!

Warp winding on

And voila, the warp is pulled to the loom evenly, with rulers inserted between layers to keep them separate and maintain an even tension during weaving. Magic!

When the jugs are close to the loom, the warp can be untied and brought carefully to the breast beam. Then it is tied in small bunches in front of the reed to hold it in place. Each bunch is then carefully tied to the front apron rod, making sure to keep the tension even (this usually required retying 2 or 3 times).

Then the weaving commences. First, some stray material is woven in to spread the warp evenly. In this case, I used the dreaded blue warp. (Actually, I liked the effect of the darker stripe, and the next time I make a runner or mat using dornick's, I am going to try adding contrasting stripes at the ends.)